Volume, how much is enough?

Length and width has been major train of thought for all of us shaping or ordering a kneeboard. Why go long? Times have changed so has our concept of volume. Thickness, where will I put it? Kneeboarding has an ageing  population and unless you surf everyday, have a really good diet, stretching and exercising regime you will put on weight…

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So when you order a new KB or shape one yourself – whatever is the case – volume has to be considered to suit your physicality .  If you are 6ft 2 and a 110 kg you will struggle paddling a 5’7 x 23  2¼ KB. So it is weight ratio, height, etc and the ability to still  make a KB that will be lively and not a log.

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In the early 70s we mostly rode 5’6 which was the normal length for a KB on average. I personally had a 5’6 and a 5’9, both 21″ wide which was fine for powerful, sucky waves. However I realised over time that going wider and longer helped to carry the KB through turns and great for long punishing paddles. I made my first 6′ for myself in ’77 and I put a single wing Rounded Pin on it. Soon felt I had a distinct advantage to get into waves early, down the face, further behind the peak, so I started making my boards longer. Short little disc-type boards were great fun, that’s for sure, if they had good thickness and width. We all rode short boards, but a balance was needed, so we had a ‘hot-dogger’ (short board) and a ‘gun’ (long board), one for small waves, one for big waves in the quiver.  But, as things progressed, nowadays we can move and change fins up to 3, 4, 5 setups and make long KBs very loose.

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As you get older you need more comfort. You surf for fun, want to catch waves, not struggle and be at peace in the water. You want to come out from a surf satisfied, not agitated.  So get the volume to suit your needs. Thickness in your torso area, foil through the tail, what waves do you realistically surf most of the time? A KB should suit your needs and it takes time to get to know your KB, give it a chance. It’s always good to have a bit more volume than lack of it. Remember, you are getting older. Volume = your volume = KB volume. And may your voluminous volume bring you extra vroom-vroom in the water!

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9 thoughts on “Volume, how much is enough?

  1. Got in to kneeboarding last year because of a bad tear in a meniscus . Cant pop up like I use to. Shaped a 6 4 kneeboard. 23 wide 18 in tail 17 in nose 27/8 thick. Went too thick i reckon but caught some great smallish waves at my local break. Hope to shape another board next year. Will keep rhew width more or less but will pull in the tail an inch and go 6 2 long . Hope it will be the Ace of Spades

  2. Neil, just read over your article and I would like ask what dimensions you would suggest for my first kneeboard. I am 65 years old, 6’4”, 280 lb.s. I am from the North Shore of Oahu and still would like to surf the 6-8 foot waves here at home but I must admit that due to my weight and age and lack of fitness popping up has been difficult and I need to sit out the back all the time because I cannot duck dive the powerful waves I love to ride. I cannot duck dive my 10’ x 25” wide x 4” thick surfboard. I am wanting to try kneeboarding. I swim a mile 3-4 times a week and am in ok shape for an old guy. Any recommendations on the board shape, dimensions, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

  3. Hi Neil,
    I am old school. I use to ride a kneeboard back in the 70s and 80s. I had a kneeboard approx. 5ft 4 x 23x 2 half inches. I am after a kneeboard that would suit me now.

    I don`t understand how volume has come into the surf scene. I am 90kg in weight and 5`9 height. I ride smaller waves now .

    What size would you recommend for me.?

    Are you able to advise please

  4. Hi Neil,
    I am old school. I use to ride a kneeboard back in the 70s and 80s. I had a kneeboard approx. 5ft 4 x 23x 2 half inches. I am after a kneeboard that would suit me now.

    I don`t understand how volume has come into the surf scene. I am 90kg in weight and 5`9 height. I ride smaller waves now .

    What size would you recommend for me.?

    Are you able to advise please

  5. Great post, thank you Neil. I’ve been thinking about volume a lot recently so this was timely. Really enjoying your blog, please keep on sharing your experience and insights!

    1. Thanks Tom , Volume is always a subject that needs alot of consideration its a real personal topic . And u can still keep it in a kb and disguise it by layering and foiling the foam . We have to be realistic u can get into waves early with it bonus , then again a late drop on a kb is a rush. You certainly have to feel ur way and find the happy medium.

  6. Completely agree neil
    The 5,9 I picked up last week is perfect for steep take offs I have surfed it at Flynns tibir meanos and cyrills then took freak out at seconds yesterday and today. It’s great having the diversity.

  7. My last few boards have been 6 x 23 1/2 x 2 5/8. That thinness has to me been fantastic – more responsive & I get more feel through the board if that makes sense. I’ve actually battled with shapers to make boards that thin because of their preference for thicker boards. Just saying it goes both ways!

    1. Good comment Eric I am always concerned how the board makes a customer feel as its of utmost importance to feel part of the kb so it becomes you in the water 2nd nature u dont have to think …just feel and hopefully its a good feel.

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